10 Life Tips Toward Being a Better Craigslister’

10 Life Tips Toward Being a Better Craigslister

We live in a society of rules and regulations; complete with an accepted set of social norms. Yet there is one place where these commonalities, courtesies, and social graces die hard: Craigslist.

Let’s face it: If you’re a car guy or gal of any sort, you’ve used Craigslist. It’s a great way to buy and sell parts and best yet, it’s free! But it seems there are those that abuse the privilege of such a wonderful tool of car-guy commerce. Whether through indecency, dishonestly, or just a lack of common sense, some people can be a real pain in the you-know-what. So, to combat further degeneration of Craiglist, I have compiled my top 10 Dos and Don’ts for Craiglist users everywhere.


Be On Time

If you make a plan to come pick up or sell a part, honor the agreed upon time. We’re all busy people, with limited time to do the things we like doing most. If you plan meet someone at noon, be there. And, if something comes up—as things are prone to do—let the person know so they aren’t left standing in the cold, waiting. Hint: a seller that’s been waiting on your late butt for an hour is far less likely to shift the price in your favor.

Learn How To Haggle

Buying and selling is an art, and as a buyer, you walk a fine line of offending a seller with a bad offer and paying more than you need to. One of the most common, and least effective, haggling tactics I’ve observed is asking for the lowest offer right off the bat, via a text message. When my phone jingles and some obscure and disembodied phone number asks, “What’s the lowest you’ll take for X,” I have to wonder, does that ever work?

A seller becomes more willing to negotiate as the likelihood of a sale increases. With your polite self present and looking at the part, and with the smell of a couple extra bucks wafting from your pocket like the spectral arm of a pie sent in a cartoon, he or she is much more likely to budge on the price than in any text message exchange.

Post Pictures

Take the few extra seconds to add pictures to your add. This could easily be the difference between attracting an interested buyer or not selling your doodad at all. Even a cell phone photo that clearly shows the part (preferably from a few angles) is an immensely valuable selling tool. A savvy buyer will ask to see photos first anyway, so you might as well have them available from the beginning.

Be Responsive And Reachable

If you have gone through the trouble of creating an ad, make sure you’re available to respond to interested parties. Check your email regularly, or be around to answer your phone—if you’re so inclined as to list your number. I can’t even begin to express how frustrating it is when someone has a part I’d like to buy, and they won’t respond. Take my money already!

Read The Ad!

This one is a biggie, guys—possibly the most important takeaway from this column. If a seller has gone through the trouble to write a thoughtful description of what’s being sold, read it. There is little more annoying than having to repeat an ad, especially in a text message, because someone has neglected to read it before contacting you. Without exception; do this first. Now, if after reading the description you have legitimate follow-up questions, it is entirely within your right—and best interest—as a buyer to inquire further. You know that saying, “there are no dumb questions?” There are. They’re the ones that have already been answered.


Met People At Your Personal Residence

No one likes to imagine that bad things can happen to them. But, that’s no reason to take unnecessary risks. While countless good people buy and sell through Craigslist every day, there will always be scoundrels in our midst. Inviting a stranger to come to your garage-mahal, the place where you store your most precious automotive treasures, tools and cars—not to mention yourself and your family—is an entirely avoidable risk. Conduct transactions in a public place, ideally in the day when other people are around. Better yet, many police stations now offer designated spots at their stations for Craiglist transactions to occur. Play it safe.

Count Your Beans First

Car parts are several steps down on the pyramid of necessities. Food, rent, and several other vital costs of living inevitably take precedence—though I have skipped lunch for weeks at a time to bolster my parts fund. The bottom line is that if you don’t have the money, don’t waste someone’s time, regardless of how much you want the thing they’re selling. Carefully evaluate if the part is what you’re looking for and how badly you want it before being the infamous “Craigslist flake” who bails out of the deal at the last minute.

Exaggerate What You’re Selling

It’s a timeless tale of bait and switch. You show up to look at a part/car and laid before you is not the pristinely shined object of your desire, but a rusted and gnarled imposter. This sort of trickery is far more likely to earn a seller a fat lip than a fat wallet. Be honest, and describe what you’re listing as accurately as possible. If there is damage, detail it in pictures and mention it in the description. 99 percent of the time, the buyer is going to notice the problem on arrival, so why waste either of your time?

Call In The Middle Of The Night

It’s important to remember that on the other end of that phone number is a person, a person that like most members of our species isn’t nocturnal. Just because you cruise the local listings in the wee hours of the morning, does not mean it’s OK to bother others that late. You’d think this would go without saying, but alas it happens all the time. People have families and work in the morning, so be courteous. And besides, that offer you were going to make is far less appealing when you are waking someone up to deliver it.

Underestimate The Power Of A Phone Call

While text messaging is well on it’s way to becoming the prime form of communication of this country, don’t underestimate the power of a good ol’ phone call. Texts are cold, lifeless things—despite the amount of smiley faces you insert—and lack the warmth and sincerity of a human voice. There have been several occasions where picking up the phone and actually speaking to someone has lead to something in common: an acquaintance, an interest, a car, that ultimately lead to a better deal—and a few times, even a friendship.

Source: HotRod.com


Posted in Interesting Stuff

This $126,000 Buick reveals the next big trend in classic cars



This $126,000 Buick reveals the next big trend in classic cars. Eastbound and down: $550,000 for a 1977 Pontiac Trans Am promo car from “Smokey and the Bandit.”
Another collection of Porsches is going to be auctioned and it could be a test of the classic car market

Jerry Seinfeld’s Porsches shine at an auction that might be the peak for classic car market
The classic car market has become saturated.

The next big thing? The ’80s.

Kids from that era are now adults entering the car market, Craig Jackson, chairman and CEO of the Barrett-Jackson auction house, told Business Insider.

And now that they’ve got money to spend, they are forgoing the traditional limits of the classic car world, preferring instead the cars they grew up wanting.

During this year’s Scottsdale auction with houses Barrett-Jackson, Gooding & Co, RM Sotheby’s, and Bonhams, overall sales were down about 15%. That’s a major drop after years of rapid growth.

While Ferrari road cars failed to meet expectations, cars from the ’80s, long seen as out of place among automotive royalty, brought in huge prices.

A 1984 Ford Mustang GT-350 sold for $71,500, while a 1987 Buick GNX went for $126,500.

“We needed to predict the future a bit, and so we took a lot of 80’s cars — and they broke the bank,” Jackson said.

“When we saw a late model, ‘in the wrapper’ 1979 Trans-Am for $180,000 —that tells you that the next gen’ers are spending their money,” Jackson said. “And now we need to prepare for the Millennials.”

At Barrett-Jackson’s Palm Beach auction this weekend, expect to see some more Reagan-era automotive classics, including three Porsche 930 Turbos.

A 1987 Buick GNX sold in Scottsdale for $126,500.

This “fox body” 1984 Ford Mustang GT-350 sold for $71,500.


Posted in Auction News, Industry News

Bronze 1969 Plymouth Road Runner


Geoff Pipe first became aware of the gorgeous lines of the 1969 Plymouth Road Runner as a 5-year-old boy in 1969, while looking through a car magazine and coming across an ad featuring Richard Petty’s 1968 Plymouth Grand National Stock Car. As the years passed, his passion for muscle cars grew and although he did own a couple of other 60’s era muscle cars, he never gave up on his dream of one day owning a Road Runner.

By the late 1980’s, he had graduated post-secondary and was working at a good paying job. He decided it was time to begin searching. Geoff’s want list was fairly straight forward. It had to be a post car, it had to be a factory 4-speed and, preferably, it would have buckets and a console.

For about 18 months he answered every “For Sale” ad he came across and each time came up empty handed. The potential cars he viewed were either in very poor shape (one was a Satellite that had been used as a “bridge” between a cattle chute and the transport truck), very overpriced or, were Satellites dressed up as Road Runners.

In late February of 1991, he came across an ad for a 1969 Plymouth in the local Bargain Finder paper. The ad simply read “For Sale 1969 Plymouth” and a phone number. Figuring it was likely just Fury or Valiant, he ignored the ad. The same ad appeared again in the next two issues of the paper and now he had a nagging feeling that he should make the call. Thankfully, he did.

The lady who answered the phone said it was her husband’s and he was out at the time, but she did promise to pass his number along to him. She apologized for not knowing anything about the car but she did say she thought it might actually be “one of those cars named after that Saturday morning cartoon bird.” Needless to say, his pulse ratcheted up a few points. The owner called shortly afterward and confirmed that the car was a real ’69 Road Runner post coupe with buckets, console and 4-speed! He said it was most certainly not for sale if Geoff planned to do anything other than restore it.


Being as this was the early 90’s, it was the height of the Pro Street movement. Geoff admits that his plans were to tub the car and add an 8-point roll cage but he denied having intentions to do anything that involved cutting the car up. They arranged a time for him to drive out to Standard, Alberta that weekend to look the car over. When Geoff arrived at the house, he discovered a very tired Plymouth.

Wearing a white, roller-applied paint job, the Road Runner housed incorrect E-body seats, a homemade trailer hitch, no brakes, a transplanted 440 with a serious death knock and a 4-speed with the shifter mechanism held together with a clothes hanger. On the positive side, the car was quite heavily optioned for a Road Runner with the exception of manual steering and brakes. It was perfect! The following weekend he headed back to Standard with payment in hand and the transfer of ownership was done.

As often happens; life intervened, and between a marriage (and subsequent divorce), a lack of funds, no proper work space and seven different storage sites, the car sat in pieces for 15 years. During that time, he swayed away from building a Pro-Street car and was now planning on a full restoration. Over time, he was able to collect and restore many good used and NOS parts for the restoration that he was beginning to wonder if he would ever perform.


In 2003, he got remarried and they bought their first house the same year. Though not a car girl, she was very understanding when it came to the car they affectionately nick named “COYOTB8.” For the 6th time, the car was moved as he finally had a space to really start working. In 2006, with the pending birth of their second son, Geoff’s wife said if he was going to get the car finished then it was time to sell his soul and get serious.

The first order of business was to contact his friend Terry Levair at Investment Vehicle Restorations in Ganum, Alberta. From there, they began to work on a plan and budget for the body work and paint. After years of refusing to have a “brown” car, Terry sprayed a custom mixed Bronze base coat very similar to the original T7 Saddle Bronze Metallic followed by a number of clear coats and gave it a glass-smooth wet sand. Geoff said, “Many thanks go to Terry as he went beyond the agreed plan without altering the budget we had settled on!”

While the body was getting finished, Kori Alexander at Show and Go Restorations in Red Deer, Alberta had worked his magic on the A-833 4-speed transmission and 8.75 Sure Grip differential. Originally a 383, the 440 Source 438ci stroker engine was machined and assembled by BER Automotive in Red Deer. On top of a mild port match and polish, modifications to the engine included a Lunati Voodoo camshaft, Proform 850cfm 4-barrel carburetor, Mopar Performance dual plane aluminum intake and a double roller billet timing chain. Exhaust is a full 2-inch system with an X-pipe supplied by TTI.

Luckily for him, another friend and Mopar guru, Neil Patrick was heavily involved in the cars reassembly and finally on October 1st, 2009, it moved under its own power for the first time in 18 years. The pressure was really on to get the car finished as Geoff had committed the car to the Northern Mopars Car Club display at the 2010 World of Wheels in Calgary in late February and there were still a number of unfinished details like installing the glass and the interior needing to be completed among other things.

After some anxious moments, the car was completed a few days before the show and was ready for the Thursday move in. Geoff says “COYOTB8”s debut was more successful than he had ever hoped with it being awarded not only “Best in Class,” but also “Outstanding Engine Restored” and “Outstanding Restored.”

Geoff would like to extend his thanks to Terry Levair, Kori Alexander, Neil Patrick, Rob Campaign, Larry Gammon, Paul Desjardins, Barry Manning and many others for their help; especially his wife Cathy and sons Lucas and Matthew for putting up with it all!

Source: Mopar Connection Magazine
Mopar Connection Magazine
Posted in Mopar | Tagged , , ,

Adding a Custom Rollbar to the 1972 Corvette Scarlett Project Car

1 1972 Corvette Project Scarlett Rollbar

It hasn’t escaped our notice that shoehorning over 600 horsepower into a stick shift car can make it a real handful. So far we’ve added traction control, five-point harnesses and a custom chassis to tame that power into something manageable. But if you’re going to put a car on the track where the goal is to drive to the limit, you have to plan ahead for what happens when you push it too far. This brings us to the rollbar.

There’s a lot of fab work and no small inconvenience involved in shoehorning in a ’bar, especially in a car with as little room as a C3, which already has about the least usable room of any Corvette. The first good reason to make those sacrifices is that many tracks require it. At the dragstrip, for example, once you start moving deep into the 11s, you’ve got to have one if you want to make more than that first pass that gets you thrown out. A well-braced bar also helps stiffen the chassis, which is always a plus, and the added weight in the rear can help with weight distribution.

There is, however, a fair amount of controversy about including full ’cages—and even ’bars—in street cars, and for good reason. If the driver isn’t helmeted and restrained in a crash, like they would be on the track, there’s a great chance their head will hit the ’bar. That’s about the same as getting hit in the head by a baseball bat, which is a pretty unattractive proposition. If you have a compelling reason to go ahead and install a ’bar anyway, it makes sense to reduce that risk in any way possible with bar design, padding, etc. It is, however, virtually impossible to eliminate all risks, and that’s something that bears serious consideration when you decide to put one in.

In our case, we felt the car’s intended track use required it, so we went ahead. Unfortunately, while safety is a hot topic in the Pro Touring world where Scarlett belongs, as of yet there aren’t many hard-and-fast rules on what’s required, leaving racers who want to be safe looking to SCCA, NHRA, NASA and other rules when they plan their builds. Similarly, we looked to the NHRA rulebook for general specifications and followed the basic design of a main hoop supported by a pair of uprights and braced by a crossbar that doubles as a harness mount. For material, we starting with seamless DOM steel tubing with an OD of 1 3/4-inches and a wall thickness of 0.120-inch that we MIG welded together, and to the frame to form the bar.

Since the C7 rear suspension on our Street Shop chassis requires modifying the back deck to make room for the bulkier A-arm system, we had already sawzalled out everything behind the seats, which left us with a large open area to measure for the bar, and to test-fit as we went. Even so, we raised and lowered the body off the frame several times to get the fit right.

Once the critical dimensions of the bar were set, we realized that our Corbeau seats sat higher relative to the bar than we wanted, which is a side effect of trying to shoehorn so much together in so small a space. In order to lower the seats (and therefore the driver’s head) below the bar, we started by cutting and re-welding the brackets that mount the seats to the floor of the car, which earned us an extra inch or so of room. We also learned the A4 seat is available with a shaved base that removes one inch of foam from the bottom seat cushion, which would buy us a little more space to work with. Had we known the rollbar specs when we originally ordered the seats, we’d have gotten the shaved version. Since we didn’t, however, we’ll have them modified to get the extra inch, and have a set of seat heaters installed at the same time.

With the bar finished, the frame goes to powdercoat, and once back, we’ll rebuild the back deck and storage trays around the rollbar and add larger wheels for our wider rear tires.

2 Autocad Bar Plans

01. Measure three times, cut once. After taking careful measurements inside the car to fit the bar as closely as possible to the interior, Tray Walden drew up the ’bar in AutoCAD. It may appear simple on paper, but the angles get fairly complex.

3 Seamless Dom Tubing

02. We started with 1 3/4-inch diameter seamless DOM tubing with a wall thickness of 0.120-inch, just a bit thicker than the 0.118-inch required for an NHRA ’bar. This allows a bit of wiggle room to allow for the tubing to thin as it’s being bent.

4 1972 Corvette Project Scarlett Rollbar

03. With the dimensions established, Tray started the bends in the middle of the tube with a slight “crown” that follows the inside roofline.

5 Rollbar Series Bends

04. This is the main hoop after the initial series of bends. After the shape was fit to the interior, the legs had to be cut to length. Note in this photo that the legs have been cut at an angle, which is necessary to fit it flush against the frame.

6 Main Hoop Checked Interior Trim

05. The main hoop was checked continually for fit with the inside of the car. While the interior trim pieces are removed in this photo, they were put in place for measurement purposes and later during the fitting process.

7 Crossbar

06. Once the main hoop was bent, we started on the crossbar. Since the crossbar is [itself] bent and also meets the main hoop at an angle, it was carefully set up in the mill at the correct angle before being notched with a holesaw.

8 Crossbar Prior Welding

07. Here is the crossbar in place on the main hoop prior to welding.

9 Hoop Crossbar Welded

08. This is the hoop with the crossbar welded in place. In addition to strengthening the hoop, the crossbar also serves as a mounting point for the seat harnesses. Note the concave bends on the crossbar; this provides maximum clearance for the seats.

10 1972 Corvette Project Scarlett Rollbar Downtubes

09. Once the hoop and crossbar were together, we cut the downtubes and welded them to the frame. As with the crossbar, they meet both the hoop and the framerail at an angle. Obviously, indexing the tubes correctly while the angles are cut is critical.

11 Thick Plate Welded Frame

10. We used a thick plate welded to the frame as a mounting point for the main hoop. The tubing for the hoop was welded all the way around its perimeter once we lifted the body back off the chassis.

12 Rollbar Mounting Studs

11. An obvious problem created by the rollbar is its interference with the ability to tilt out the rear window. Shortening the mounting studs made it possible to unlatch the top of the window, lift it upwards to free the studs, and then slide the window down and out of place.

13 Corbeau A4 Seats 1972 Corvette

12. With the structure of the bar in place, we put our Corbeau A4 seats in place to check their height, only to find they fit higher than we expected.

14 A4 Separate Base

13. We had ordered our A4’s with a separate base that screws to sliders mounted to the bottom of the seat. Once we began looking for places to remove height from the seat, this bracket on the back of the seat base was an obvious choice.

15 Seat Bolt Holes

14. After carefully removing the bracket from the base with a cutoff wheel, we used an awl to locate our seat bolt holes through the floor insulation and then laid out the pieces of the base and bracket we had cut off, clearancing them where necessary, and tacked it together.

16 Stock Seat Base

15. This is the first seat after rewelding the base (right), shown back-to-back with the stock seat base. It earned us about an inch. We’ll have the foam in the base shaved for another inch.

17 1972 Corvette Rollbar

16. After sorting out the seat height, we turned back to the rollbar, and added an additional pair of diagonals inside the main hoop for strength.

18 Seat Belt Harness

17. If you use seat belt harnesses that wrap around the mounting bar, you’re required to have some way to keep them from sliding on the bar. Tray, again, drew out a guide in AutoCAD and then burned a pair of them on the hi-def plasma.

19 Harness Guide Welded Crossbar

18. The harness guide was welded in place on the crossbar. We put them on the bottom to make them as unobtrusive as possible.

20 Rollbar Assembly

19. This is the finished rollbar assembly. Once the chassis goes to powdercoat, ’bar and all, we can start assembling the suspension, brakes and powertrain components.

By: Jeremy D. Clough

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Posted in Interesting Stuff

Here’s How to Fight the EPA Ban on Constructing a Race Car

Sema Camaro Save Cars

If last Monday’s announcement that the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) proposed a regulation to prohibit the conversion of any street-driven vehicle into a racecar left you feeling helpless, here’s a link to petition the White House against the proposed EPA regulation, and fight back.

Here’s a quick refresher of what the proposed regulation is about. SEMA has issued a press release informing the public that the EPA is aiming to make it illegal to convert automobiles originally designed for on-road use into racecars, even though such conversions have been done since the dawn of the automobile – it’s called improving the breed.

002 EPA Racecar Ban SEMA Petition Oppose Sign

Under the EPA’s proposed rule, it would also be illegal to sell any performance-related products for those cars. The EPA’s proposal would have a devastating impact on motorsports since many types of racing rely on production vehicles that have been modified for use strictly at the track.

In recent affairs, SEMA battled proposed legislation to register all racecars. Isn’t there another group of enthusiasts that say registration is the first step to confiscation?

Now is your chance to voice your opinion and protect our beloved American hobby! Follow the link below to the official petition, put forth by the SEMA Action Network and protect the right to build racecars.

Ask the EPA to Withdraw its Proposal Now!


By: John Gilbert

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Posted in Industry News, Interesting Stuff

The Official Super Chevy Show Returns to Memphis!

2016 Super Chevy Show Memphis Burnout

The clock is rapidly ticking down until the official Super Chevy Show kicks off its season, returning to Memphis Tennessee on April 8-10. The first of an exciting 6-show lineup, the Super Chevy magazine staff will be on hand at Memphis International Raceway (MIR), handing out special Editor’s Choice awards to a select few car show entries.

One lucky entrant may even have their car selected to become a feature story in the pages of Super Chevy magazine! And, don’t forget the coveted Super Chevy winner’s jackets.

All of this year’s events will feature the massive car show Super Chevy Show patrons have come to know and love, and classes will cover everything Chevy-powered, from original restorations and restomods to street rods and customs.

In order to tide your Bow Tie addiction over until the show, scroll down and check out some of the coverage from last year’s spectacular Memphis Super Chevy Show!

Planning on coming out? There are several ways to enjoy a Super Chevy Show … register your vehicle to drag race, enter your car in the professionally judged car show, or display your car just for fun, without the pressure of being judged. No Chevy just yet? Never fear, take in the excitement as a spectator and pick up some ideas for your future project.

By: Evan Perkins

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Posted in Events

Watch Our Valentines 14 Day 10% OFF Sale Video

Save 10% off with orders you place on our online store, use the Valentine’s Day Discount Code: Valentine2016


Posted in Industry News